ive recentally procured a thermaltake bigwater off luke scar ( the bigwater thing with one radiator) and the temp hits 40c quite often, non oced. i find it takes the bite off any temp spikes , but it still does not beat the zalman 7700-cu i modded with a faster server fan. i could overclock my system to 2.7 from 2.4 stable playing bf2142 at max and it would sit at 35-40

so ive decided to start a project, im going to buy a car fridge or picnic fridge , those small porta 12v ones theres one at dick smiths for 29.99 its based on some semi-conductors or transisters that get hot when a certain polarity is applyed and uber cool with the other polarity i want to get 5-10m of pipe and coil it in it and fill it about 2/3 or 1/2 full of water and freeze it with the pipes in it and make ports on the top or side for the pipe. i think it said it keeps the temp between 4-18 degrees depending on ambient temps so i hope it freezes it.

the same cooling method is used at my dads old work, the lindisfarne rsl they use like a diy customised fridge to run the beer through after being pushed out of the barrels by co2 he said it keeps it between 0-4c so im hopeing to get it somewhere at 0-10c at best, thats if the mini-fridge can freeze water or some other liquid,,, i could get some additives to make the freezeing temp get higher

i was talking to luke reynolds and we were talking about hydrolic pipe connectors , they have 2 valves so i could easily attach,detach the fridge and he said they loose about a teaspoon worth of fluid


the only issue with this setup is condensation on the water block does anybody know a way around this? other than oil fishtank pc lolz


chris

I remember seeing an article about setting up a phase change unit on the OC-OZ forums, a Lian-Li clone IIRC. Had the same issues re: condesation.
The condensation issue was tackled by lots of insulation, paste (can't remember the type, was smeared almost everywhere around the socket) and a peltier plate (one of those "transisters", eBay has them) on the other side of the socket to keep the temp above the dew point.

hmm maby an easier way would be to purchase a not to big fish tank maby perspex and contruct mounts in it and submergethe mob and such in oil leave the psu and stuff out

http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/strip-fans,1203.html

hmm, good luck lugging that beast around
You probably wouldn't need to go as far as the OZ-OC boys did with their phase change setup, you would just need to prevent the surfaces of the block contacting any air at all to stop the condensation - A skin of silicon perhaps.

but wouldant condensation still form on the silicone?

maybe, if it's thin - I'm thinking a cm or so thick, or cover the block with a hefty neoprene layer

Perhaps its better just to accept that hardware was designed to run a particular spec.. and live with it.

Your cooling it down too much anyways, i forget where, but there was a group that tested the whole "liquie nitrogen" cooling setup on a stock chip, basically they showed that when at a low enough temperature, a chip will start to fault.

Your best bet with the water cooling, is to run a combination setup.
Grab yourself a water block that has fins and space for a fan, setup a fan on it to run at nice low RPMs to move some air across it.
Also use a reservoir that has a decent set of fins on it with fan mounts.. if you insulate your case against sound (you can buy foam insulation pads at pc case gear) then you should be able to cut out all noise (the real reason behind water cooling !!!) and hopefully keep the chip reasonably cool aswell.